Welcome to the Angling Active Magazine – Fishing News, Advice and Articles

Trout Spey

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What is “Trout Spey” we hear you ask?

In a nutshell… Trout Spey rods are 10-11ft #3 -#5 weight double hander rods.

Besides the fact that we can already catch trout on a Spey rod, and we all know what a Switch rod is capable of, do we really need another style of double hander…? The answer for many UK fly anglers and ourselves here at Angling Active, is a resounding “Yes”, and we explain why.

It’s like life repeating itself – The long period from the early 2000’s where anglers argued that Switch rods have been around well before the angling industry made a song and dance about them, is back again to haunt the UK. This time though, with a shift similar to how Switch rods became popular, the Trout Spey style of rods will impress even those critical of the expansion. UK anglers are historically slow or even sceptical to pick up on new ideas in the fishing market, it might be a British thing, but we know for sure when anyone has a shot of a Trout Spey, they’ll be consumed by it, just want to use it, and they’ll start thinking of all the scenarios that will just make their fishing better.

History

The use of double handers has historically been used solely for those pursuing salmon and occasionally seatrout. For this reason Spey rods have heavier line weights and have enough backbone to fight these often big and unassuming fish. Recently though, tackle manufacturers have quickly picked up on the growing number of already established Switch rods being sold in #7 and #8 weights and there is often the request for a #6 weight Switch. This shift has opened the door to the development of even lower line weight double handers.

Introducing the double handed Spey rod for trout reaching as low as #3 in line weight! – the Trout Spey.

Here’s a video from the very cool guys at Redington using the REDINGTON HYDROGEN TROUT SPEY rods.

Why Trout Spey?

Besides the fact that fighting butts have been around forever and single handed Spey casting is no new thing, the Trout Spey style of rods is just so much fun. Here are just a few uses:

  • Imagine the unpressured, tight tree-lined overhung sections of river you couldn’t fish before because there was no room for a backcast or significant D-loop. No problem.
  • Also, if most salmon anglers could, they’d love to re-learn the beautiful art of Spey casting from scratch; This is as close as they’ll get and they can use their perfected muscle memory for trout and seatrout if the salmon are not biting or if they haven’t turned up yet.
  • Trout anglers are now lucky enough to learn the double hand Spey style of casting for the first time on the very same water they are used to fishing whether it be stillwater or a river.
  • Then there is the very exciting prospect to seatrout anglers now fishing with a light double hand rod that provides the fight of a lifetime without the backcast into the darkness behind them and reaching further for those splashes across the main stream.

The transition

Salmon fly anglers will find the transition to the shorter and lighter Trout Spey setup with lighter lines and reel etc. quite easy and very enjoyable. However, the salmon angler will have to consider that a trout is actively feeding and will require a different kind of fly choice theory and as importantly a different line presentation be it the retrieve or just how the line is swung.

The experienced single handed trout fisher will have to learn the art of double handed Spey casting (which will be an absolute pleasure), but they will be able to employ their existing experience in how trout think and where they tend to sit/feed.

Another type of angler that will benefit from the Trout Spey rod design, is the still water boat fishermen. A 10 or 11 foot rod provides greater distance, reach, dabbling, and line control in comparison to a shorter rod, and the fact that these come in #3, #4 and #5 weights means that these anglers are now presented with a greater range of rods to choose from – very attractive to the wild hill loch fly anglers.

Lastly, if you suffer from tennis elbow or if you are struggling casting your “10 for 7” all day, these Trout Spey rods make for easy roll casting using the leverage of another hand. The result is less work on your casting arm and greater distances.

How do you set up a Trout Spey outfit?

The rod and reel choice is a repeated exercise/formula for all fly outfits, just match the line rating that the rod dictates to the same size of reel. This will mean you have chosen a reel that is not too heavy and balances the rod nicely giving you capacity for enough backing and the line. The choice of brand/model is yours, though we’d suggest a reel with a good bit of space for backing. Fish taking a fly swung below you have the advantage of being able to peel more line faster using the current.

Trout Spey lines?

Choosing the correct line for a Trout Spey outfit is different to what most fly anglers would be used to. Based on salmon lines where the grain rating is recommended in either a scandi or skagit style, Trout Spey lines need a heavier and shorter head than most trout lines. Generally, for those anglers looking to achieve delicate presentation with light tips and small flies, the scandi style is best. Seatrout anglers will be in favour of this style too. In order to lob heavy flies and/or fast sink tips, choose a skagit line which is an even more condensed, thick head, with a thin shooting line and options for differing tips.

Trout Spey Line Chart

Trout Spey Line Weight Scandi (grains) Skagit (grains)
#3 200 – 225 250 – 275
#4 250 – 275 300 – 325
#5 300 – 325 350 – 375
#6 350 – 375 400 – 425

 

The above table is our guide to the recommended Trout Spey line weights. Notice that skagit line recommendations are consistently 50 grains heavier than scandi. This is a good rule of thumb, though very general, through heavier salmon dedicated weights too. We believe between Scandi and Skagit styles, that scandi lines will be the more popular on UK waters for Trout Spey users, but there will be some anglers looking for skagit lines too. Please see our line recommendations below:

 

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RIO SCANDI SHOOTING HEAD

 

The Rio Scandi Shooting Head has historically been a versatile line for all spey casting anglers which was originally known as the “AFS” before being updated. The range of line weights now available in the Rio Scandi is perfect for this expansion into light double handed rods, in particular the Trout Spey style. Using our Trout Spey Line Chart above, choose the corresponding weight by clicking the below shopping button. NB. There is no harm in rounding up a grain weight, many will be doing this being common place to salmon anglers. Additionally, this is a head only option which will require a running line. There are no integrated running line (aka ‘Outbound’) options available yet in these grain weights.

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RIO INTOUCH SINGLE HANDED SPEY

The Rio InTouch Single Handed Spey line just keeps surprising us. This line was designed for one main purpose, but even to the surprise of the line designer Simon Gawsworth, it has become a universal line across many sophisticated casting styles. First of all it excelled at what it says it is, a very forgiving and excellent performing single hand line for performing single handed spey style casts. THEN, we realised it is just the most beautiful line to cast over-head on a single hand rod. It just stays airborne and lands as straight as any line we have ever fished with. Lastly, we have discovered that it works beautifully on a Trout Spey style setup if you go up 3 line sizes. Much like adding a trout line to a switch rod, double handed rods require allot more weight in the line to compensate for a water anchor when spey casting. In order for you to make an informed decision, some examples would be to use a #6 Rio Single Hand Spey line on a #3 Trout Spey rod or even a #7 line of a #4 Trout Spey rod. This is an all in one line, so no seperate running line needs to be purchased.

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RIO SKAGIT TROUT MAX

For the 2016/17 market. The Rio Skagit Trout Max heads are short, powerful shooting heads designed for lightweight Trout Spey and Switch rods, as well as for single handed rods. It is recommended that you put a ‘light’ or if you already have the ‘Medium’ Mow tip on the front for effective presentation and line energy transfer. This line will also give you the option to use sinking Mow tips, getting your flies deeper than the other two line suggestions above. Use our line weight chart above, and note that no over rating of the grain weight is required with this line. Similar to the Rio Scandi line above though, you will require a running line as this is just the head.

 

Techniques of Trout Spey:

The main difference between swinging a fly for trout to salmon is the location of the fly. Generally, Salmon tend to sit in the tail of pools, underneath fast water, behind/in-front of boils etc. These lies are simply areas that a salmon will rest in or use to make their journey upstream more efficient. Trout on the other hand are not running upstream, they have a territory and they will station themselves in order to feed efficiently in a small area of the river. They’ll expel energy, but as little as possible in order to feed effectively. Trout are, again generally, found in feeding lanes, this is the foam line, or on the edge of an eddy or large bank structure, under branches or just amongst sunken structure where they can ambush their prey. Focus on these areas and you will be rewarded.

The action of the fly is also a key factor in swinging a fly for trout. You are not necessarily looking to provoke an aggressive take, yet this can be good for targeting a territorial fish. Mostly you will find yourself trying to mimic the prey of the trout in as natural a way as possible as to not raise suspicions on your offerings. The more realistic the better. This goes against most salmon tactics when you are trying to aggravate the fish into a killing mood. You will have to be very responsive to the surroundings of your fly, slow it down in cooler and deeper water, in shallow warm water speed it up, also speed up your retrieve during a follow like prey trying to escape, and if you get hit but it doesn’t stick, retrieve like your fly is wounded, even drop some line and let the fly drift for a foot and then recover.

Most sink rates of short sink tips like 5ft Airflo polyleaders will be effective on the Rio Scandi line mentioned above and some of the slower sink rates will be reasonably easy to cast on the Rio Single Hand Spey. The Skagit Trout Max however will cope with any sink tip up to 10ft, but an even better option would be to connect a Mow Tip as suggested above. Remember the longer your sink tip the shorter your leader/tippet should be. This will bring the fly down to the depth you are looking for.

Angling Active’s Summary

Trout Spey rods have opened up allot of fishing that was limited by the equipment we had available before now. We praise this shift toward lighter line weights for double handed rods because the materials being developed to build modern day rods have only become lighter and stronger too. Gone are the days of wielding heavy slow action rods to spooky, wily trout, a good decade ago, but even better we now have even more dedicated tools for challenging jobs that can perform and will only become more refined in time.

Here are all the things you should consider to get yourself into Trout Spey:

 

 

 

Braid or Mono?

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So, do I put braid or mono on my new spinning or multiplier reel?

It’s a conversation we have in-store and online daily here at Angling Active, and there never seems to be one answer.

If experienced, one angler will swear braid is better than monofilament, but the very next just as experienced customer will plead testament that his mono setup beats braid hands down.

Confused – No wonder;

What chance do less experienced anglers have if the pro guys can’t agree? We have to draw on conclusions from the learnings in-store and on the water for ourselves.

We believe braid and mono have properties that lend themselves to differing techniques and disciplines of angling on our UK waters and further afield. Listing our recommendations and findings, some will not agree with them… Hopefully, you will.

Before going into specifics, here are the main obvious differences in braid over mono:

  1. Braid has less stretch.
  2. Braid diameter is much thinner for the comparable breaking strains.
  3. Braids are more tangle prone.
  4. You can use really strong braid to reduce fish breaking off.
  5. Braids are more expensive.
  6. Braid can cut through your finger like cheese wire.

As with every customer that we have looking for advice, we always ask “What are you fishing for and how?”

Below we have listed as many styles of fishing we can think of that we cater to with braid or mono. From there you can make your own informed decisions:

 Spinning for Salmon –

Nobody can dispute that a sensitive, low drag and non-stretch line is preferred for Salmon fishing with a lure in a river. Being all of these qualities, braid is the obvious choice for most. The softest takes are felt by the angler due to the line not being able to stretch, and this non-stretch quality boosts the success rate of good hook-ups. Casting distance also benefits from the low diameter braid providing little air resistance or drag, lighter lures are cast easier too as a result. The capacity of your reel is also increased because lb for lb in breaking strain, you will fit allot more braid on a spool than you would mono. If you get into a good fish that wants to head back to the sea, you’ve got plenty of line for peace of mind. We’d recommend a few feet of monofilament or fluorocarbon at the front end of the braid attached with a palomar knot and swivel before the lure as braid is quite visible in the water. Use anything from 30lb or even 40lb breaking strain. This may seem like overkill, but we’d all rather see a fish carefully returned than breaking off with a hook and line hanging out its mouth. Generally this strength of braid will be the same diameter as 10lb monofilament.

Lure fishing for Pike –

It has to be said that braid again wins here . The smaller diameter and non-stretch qualities benefit bite detection and spool capacity. But the main advantage with braid over mono in Pike lure fishing is that you are more likely to snag up on weed or debris and you want your lure back. Loosing lures is expensive and so frustrating, and this happens allot less with braid because of its abrasive qualities. Some anglers will use braid as strong as 80lb breaking strain.

Deadbait fishing for Pike –

This is a difficult decision to make – Most will argue the same as above with lure fishing for Pike, but what has to be considered is that when bait fishing, you are usually using a stiffer bait style rod. Playing a good fish with a stiff rod requires some very good intuitive fighting technique or a bit of stretch in your line. This is where mono comes in as an advantage. We’d recommend to beginners in deadbait fishing that if you don’t want to pull the hooks out of your long awaited catches mid-fight, then get set up with mono until you feel like you know how Pike like to fight. You will adapt a style to play the fish and predict their aggressive temperament. You will now be happier to move on to braid with your softer yet more efficient fighting technique and you’ll be holding the rod allot higher to allow the reel and rod more chance of absorbing sudden fits of speed. Again up to 80lb breaking strain braid can be used here or use 30lb mono if you are just getting started.

Trolling/Harling –

This is yet another style of fishing that is broken down into braid and mono being best for differing reasons. Your choice of what line to use will depend on what the quarry is, what equipment you are using and how fast the lure is moving, and also what angle out the back of the boat your rod is pointing. Most anglers trolling over deeper or a minimal snagging loch bed, even those with outriggers and down riggers will choose mono as their desired line. The reason being there is more forgiving flex in mono, you are moving and the fish is moving potentially in a different direction, you need something other than the short stiff boat rod to absorb the take. Likewise if you have a trolling rod pointed directly out the stern of the boat. If however you are using longer more flexible rods for trolling that are pointed off the gunnels i.e. when harling, then there is allot more absorption to cope with a take. In this instance you can use braid and you will have the added benefit of abrasion resistance more commonly found in on river beds. Give us a call or email us for advice on what breaking strain for what purpose of trolling/harling.

Jigging/Bottom fishing –

Hands down, braid is the best for this job. It is all about sensitivity to a bite, and being able to pull a weight that has managed to get wedged in. Additionally, if fishing at serious depths of 600ft or so for Cod/Skate then you want as much line as possible on your spool to get all the way down to them. Most Skate and Cod anglers will use 100lb braid on an 80lb class rod and with a 40-50lb drag setting.

Coastal Spinning & LRF –

The worst environment of all fishing disciplines is the barnacle covered, sharp edged rocks covered in bullet-proof kelp and a swell to toy with your abilities. Braid is your best option for casting from the rocks. It will stand being snagged and pulled over barnacles longer than mono. Braid will potentially cut through kelp if you are lucky, whilst mono will simply try to strangle it, and we all know who wins that painful fight. The very moment you manage to dislodge a hard fighting fish from a deep ledge amongst some kelp, you’ll be so grateful you chose braid over mono. Depending on the size of your quarry and the characteristics of where you are fishing, braid of 10-30lb should cover all situations.

Bait fishing/coarse/carp –

We are now entering the biggest area of conversation/confrontation whether braid or mono is best. For swimming a maggot or worms, braid seems arguably to be the best option for abrasion resistance and senstivity. Be weary however, many systems especially South of the border have banned braid for the welfare of the fish, and most would say rightly so. It can slice through flesh like a cheese wire and because it is non stretch it will pull hooks through the fishes mouths causing damage. Most fishing braid is coated, but this will not completely remove risk of damage. If a fish were to take and the line snagged and broke, that fish is likely to be stuck there with no escape. Mono provides more stretch  and will not pull hooks as easily, and because it can break easier for its diameter and snagged fish should be able to wriggle free easier than that of braid. Most braids will start at 5-6lb breaking strain upwards.

So there are some recommendations of what to use and why. This is a guide and many people will contest or agree with what we have said. To be honest, it all boils down to what feels intuitively right to you, and this will be the correct line option for you.

Shop for braid and mono here:

 

Free Prize Draw – IMAX ATLANTIC RACE FLOATATION SUIT rrp £289.99

Free Prize Draw – IMAX ATLANTIC RACE FLOATATION SUIT rrp £289.99

Fly Tying Pro Day

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The Pro’s are coming, and you are invited… Angling Active Fly Tying Pro Day

 

Date: Saturday 17th December

Time: 10:30am – 3:30pm

Venue: Angling Active

Entry: Free

Parking: Free (lots of it!)

It is with great pleasure that we have pro tyers coming from the likes of Semperfli, Funky Fly Tying, Franc N Snaelda, Veniard, Partridge of Redditch and Deer Creek. Also the unmissable Ali Hutchens and Jo Stephenson will be tying some signature patterns.

Many disciplines of fly fishing flies will be on show and everyone’s invited to come and meet the tyers and see what they are creating on their vices. Ask them what they are using and how they do it. We will be filming their ties too, so you can re-visit anything you learned on the day by visiting our Youtube channel.

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All you need to do is escape the Christmas shopping for a few hours and just turn up at Angling Active on the day.

Special Guest Tyers:

Ali Hutchens

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Ali Hutchens is one of three guys from the Scandinavian United Fly tyers team. This team is made up of Ali from Scotland, Jim Wennmark from Sweden and Olli Rautiainen from Finland. They have their own Facebook & Instagram page and have recently launched a new website www.scandinavianflytyers.com

They released their first venture into the world of film in October this year called “Passion Breaks Borders” filmed on location in Norway, fishing for Atlantic Salmon. The film was awarded “Best Adventure and Exploration film 2016” at this years Flyfest. Watch it here: “Passion Breaks Borders Film

Ali ties a variety of flies using traditional patterns and gives them a modern twist with modern products. He is best known for his Intruder style salmon flies. This year he has also begun writing articles for Total Flyfisher magazine and his recent article centres around fishing for Salmon in the “back end”.

 

Jo Stephenson

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We are especially happy to have Jo here on the day as she will be returning as the guest of honour opening the River Teith’s fishing season for 2017 in Callander on the 1st February.

Predator and Saltwater Fly Tyer – member of Partridge, Regal, Foxy Tails, and Bug Bond Pro teams.
Fishing obsessive – Fly and lure fishing, Costa team. Fishing from kayak for Pike is my main style of fishing. Honeymoon was in Zambia for Tigerfish. Massive bucket list to get through!!
Semi finalist in Earths Wildest Waters : BBC – The Big Fish
Fishing is in the blood and the best way to spend the best of your time, with the best of your friends being the best of you!

You can visit Jo’s website here: http://jostephensonfishing.com

 

Confirmed Brands and Amazing Tyers:

 

Franc N Snaelda

Sean Stanton

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As you may know, Sean is a prolific tier but was finding it harder and harder to access good quality materials. To overcome this issue he decided to design and manufacture his own range of affordable, quality materials. Thus the Sean Stanton Signature Tubes were born , the first in the range of many signature materials to be developed.

John Richardson

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Peter McCallum

Sandy has been tying flies longer than he can remember and has been working with Semperfli from its beginning. Famous for his range of buzzers, Sandy is a passionate tyer of a great range of trout flies. Sandy has a fine eye for detail and loves to perfect each and every fly.

Peter has been fly fishing and fly tying in excess of 40 years, mainly trout, but some salmon and saltwater. In particular Peter loves Clyde style flies as well as Loch style Palmers, spiders, streamers. But to be fair, he loves any style of fly!

Sandy Dickson

Sandy has been tying flies longer than he can remember and has been working with Semperfli from its beginning. Famous for his range of buzzers, Sandy is a passionate tyer of a great range of trout flies. Sandy has a fine eye for detail and loves to perfect each and every fly.

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Darryl Mooney

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Darryl is the UK and Ireland Sales Director for Partridge of Redditch and has been tying flies for over 40 years. He lives in Northern Ireland where he grew up fishing for wild brownies on his local Rivers Lagan and Bann and this remains his passion to this day. Darryl specializes in all aspects of river nymph fishing and has fished extensively in the USA, New Zealand and Europe.

Allan Liddle1478690659allan-liddle_profile

 

Based in Moray in Scotland’s North East, Allan has specialised on the wild trout from the rivers and burns, lochs and lochans throughout Mainland Scotland and the Isles.
A strong passion for fishing simple dries he feels there’s nothing better than to see the fish take off the top, but isn’t slow to fish a range of different styles when mood or conditions dictate.

Although trout is his first love Allan occasionally chases the Salmon, Grayling stocked fish and even dabbles in salt water when the chance arises. Allan is also a GAIA qualified trout instructor and a has been a regular contributor to Fly Fishing and Fly Tying Magazine for over ten years.

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Alex Wilke (Rook)

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Alex is a renowned predator fly fisherman that is willing to travel the world in pursuit of his target species… Over the years he has raked up an amazing list of trophy catches like pike, big perch, catfish, bass, barracuda, roosterfish, giant travly, groupers to name just a few.. Alex is addicted to predator fly fishing and flytying and will be demonstrating some of his killer patterns on the day.

Craig McDonald

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Euan Miller

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& Phil Varney

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Scott Kane

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A late entry to the event, but just as welcome, Scott Kane will be demonstrating using Deer Creek UV resins on many of the patterns he is tying on the day.

Fishing is my hobby & fly tying is my passion. My grandfather and my Dad were brought up on the Clyde so it’s only natural I was steeped in the beauties of the ‘Clydestyle’. I have been on Flytyers Row at the BFFI for 6 years and a Deer creek pro-rep for the last 4 years promoting the best UV Resin On The Planet.

Stuart Smith

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I tie flies for everything and have fished in 13 countries around the world. I tie flies from size 28 micro nymphs for spooky trout and grayling right up to 10/0 for sharks. In the last 6 years I have been targeting large river browns, pike, and pollock on the fly and grayling throughout the winter. I mainly target pike in Highland lochs from a float tube and big river trout with streamers. I have tied at a few game fairs and shows over the years and help out at a fly tying club in the Winter doing demos and teaching.  I really enjoy doing this and hope to do more  because it is a great opportunity to meet other tiers and learn new styles of tying and hopefully pass on some of my experience to others and gain new ideas. About 18 months ago I was asked to be apart of Deer Creek which has been a fantastic opportunity.  I am truly honored to be apart of this great family.

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cadbe78eadc6e82147dc67525a75cf07Tying Day Raffle Prizes – Fundraiser for Strathcarron Hospice.

To show our continued support for Strathcarron Hospice and the incredible work they do, we will be offering raffle tickets to those who attend the day in store. We have three fabulous prizes to be won (all raffle proceeds will be donated to Stratchcarron Hospice).

Prize 1

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Signature flies from all of the tyers of the day.

Signature flies tied on the day by these internationally recognised tyers, will be loaded into a fly box for one lucky winner. The recipient will have a very attractive one-of-a-kind collectors item. Across all of the fly fishing disciplines tied on the day, these flies will be the lucky winner’s to keep, use, or distribute as they see fit. A very attractive prize indeed!

Prize 2

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A day fishing on the Newtyle Beat of the River Tay

Sponsored by the Scottish Salmon Fishing Surgery (SSFS) – A day of Salmon fishing on the Newtyle Beat of the River Tay for 2 rods in February has been donated for one lucky winner to share. Enjoy a day out on one of the most beautiful beats on the River Tay with a friend and be treated to a provided lunch on the riverbank. Novice to professionals alike will love Newtyle for its ideal fly water and a chance of a good fish in February, maybe your first for the year.

Prize 3

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A full year of fishing for free on either the Teith or Forth for 2017

One lucky draw winner will receive an entire year of free fishing on the Stirling Council Fisheries water on either the River Teith or the River Forth. Receive a permit for either water free of charge.

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We look forward to seeing you here and you never know, you might spy that Christmas pressie you didn’t know you wanted, you may leave with learning something, and your raffle ticket might win you one of the amazing prizes from those who are sponsoring the day.

No entry fee, no tickets, and plenty of parking. See you there!

Wader Aftercare – “Your Waders; how to keep them in tip top condition”

Recently invested in some new waders.

We’d like to offer you some simple tips and advice in order for you to maximise your wader’s lifespan ensuring you get the best out of them for seasons to come.

Upon receiving your parcel, open it carefully. A knife can pierce through the packaging and into the waders, so please be mindful of this. A good fit is crucial for the continued performance of your waders.

Take a seat and try them on with appropriate clothing underneath. Try not to wear cotton based trousers such as jeans under the waders as these can be restrictive in your movement and can often have small metal studs that could damage the tape seams. A breatable, soft layer which keeps you warm is the best option. Wear thicker socks like you would whilst out fishing.

A word of caution: Out the box, and once on and strapped over your shoulders, the waders might look great on you, nice length, feel comfortable and be almost tailored to your body whilst standing. This is actually the biggest issue with wader sizing and these waders are potentially too small. Waders should be a touch loose and baggy. They should feel a tiny bit too long, a bit too wide around the chest and legs but not so baggy there is allot of material around the upper inseam as this can act like a drogue in faster water and is dangerous.

You should be able to kneel down on one knee and also lift a knee to 90 degrees whilst standing. You should not feel any pressure/strain around the waders at all whilst doing these tests. This is especially the case in Gore-Tex and many other breathable waders as these are not designed to stretch. Neoprene waders however have a little more lee-way for stretch but it is still not ideal in preserving the stitching/seams.

If the waders you have purchased are stockingfoots, then try them on with boots. If the neoprene feet are too small you will be uncomfortable and your toes may wear weak spots into the neoprene. Too big and these socks will crease inside your boot and be uncomfortable and also weaken the waterproofing.

Additionally, if you have a set of stairs at home, try walking up and down them with your waders and boots on. Any tight spots can mean stretched seams after even your first outing and they will no longer be waterproof and warranty will not cover this damage. – That’s money down the drain.

If they are the wrong size, simply box them back up and get in touch with us.

Great, so your waders fit… Now what… Think Aftercare:

Storage

After use it can be so easy to put your waders in the boot of the car and not get round to taking them out for a day or two, the waders are wet, and your car is warm creating the perfect humid environment for bacteria to grow. They must be dried or mildew/mould will grow and weaken the materials, sometimes lifting the tape on seams and causing what looks like staining. Regardless of how much you clean this stained area it will appear dirty, this is because the bacteria have actually eaten away at the laminations of the material so it can never look like it was before. This weakening will affect the integrity of the waders and you will no longer be happy with your waders, just a couple of days can be all it takes for mildew to set in. Additionally, improper storage voids warranty by most manufacturers so hang them up to dry as soon as possible by the straps or hang tag if provided, in a ventilated room to air dry, preferably not in direct sunlight for long periods of time and certainly not on the radiator or near a fire place. Once they are completely dry on the outside, turn them inside out, sweat alone can make the waders damp inside and cause mildew to form inside. Dry inside and out and you will have a long life pair of waders. Remember, don’t make the mistake of leaving them wet and dirty in the boot of your car.

Keep them clean:

Cleaning your waders, aids the breathability of most waders. So even if your waders look clean but you find that you are uncomfortable in them on a normal day fishing, it might be time to clean them. Cleaning will also provide greater comfort as the waders are more supple, they will look better on you, and obviously benefit personal hygiene.

You can hand wash or machine wash most waders but follow the care instructions provided with the waders to the very best you can.

What can be difficult to understand is what detergent to use. Ideally, a powder detergent and importantly make sure it is non-biological. Some biological liquid detergents have colour and shine enhancers and this is not ideal for waders as the fish can see you easier as light is magnified under the water. Don’t add softeners or sheets of any kind, these are not designed for waders.

If machine washing is recommended by the manufacturer, tie up or remove the straps or even zip them into the pouch, close all zips and always use a delicate cycle with cold water and a cold rinse. Never tumble dry your waders, air dry only using the same technique as already demonstrated (above). If hand washing, be sure to rinse the waders thoroughly to remove any detergent residues before drying.

Future proofing:

Your waders have lasted a season, you’ve cleaned them – why not revive their waterproofing ready for the next season so they are just like new? DWR is referred to in the world of breathable waterproof garments and it is short for Durable Water Repellent Layer. Treated right, this DWR can last several years just like new.

Breathable waders are only breathable if you use the right treatments. Some wader manufacturers will recommend which treatments to use. The 2 most popular are NikWax and Revivex. After washing your waders and rinsing thoroughly, lay them out just damp (not wet) on a flat, clean surface and protect the surrounding area from overspray, cardboard is ideal for this. Follow the instructions on the bottle saturating the outer breathable surfaces of the garment on both front and back with the spray which can pool between the creases. Wipe this pooled treatment in and then evenly dry using a hairdryer at 10-20cm distance. You can leave the waders to air dry now, but the gentle heat from the hairdryer is what helps the treatment bind to the fibres in the waders.

Some treatments may say to use the tumble dryer, we would suggest this is a mistake specifically to waders. Do not over heat areas with the hair dryer, work past them and come back to them once cool again. The entire pair of waders should now look dry. A good test is to flick a little water on the surface of the waders and if it beads and rolls off then you have successfully re-proofed the DWR of your waders. Heavily used or rubbed areas of the waders may need treated twice. These areas include belt areas, and the crotch/inseam.

 

Overwintering:

When storing your waders for a longer period of time eg Winter, the best way to do this is to make sure they are completely clean and dry, loosely roll up without bunching them up tight, store indoors or if the shed is not damp up high out the way of mice etc. Don’t store them in an air tight container.

Try not to hang your waders in any way for longer periods of time. The reason for this is that the areas that the straps meet the waders can become stressed. This is also the case when hanging from the boots (if your waders are boot foot), the integrity of the boots and seams attaching them will diminish even with this light weight suspended off them for months. If you can find a similar circumstance to laying them gently over the back of a chair with all the weight suspended then this is best.

 

 

Autumn Pike Success

r3

18lb 4oz for Ryan

Our very own Ryan took a pal out deadbait pike fishing yesterday. The photos are enough to tell the story but Ryan wanted to share what equipment he likes and that both of them had success with:

s1

Stuart with his 22lb’er and just as big a smile!

Stuart was using a deadbait 12ft shimano 3 pound test curve

and caught this whopper on a ledgered roach. Congratulations Stuart!

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Another for Ryan at 8lb 10oz

We are here 7 days a week to offer advice. Ryan and the team can help answer any Pike angling questions you may have.

 

 

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